Trail of the Southern Oasis – pioneer edition

Leaving Nador, the route heads onto gravel tracks across the eastern foothills of the Rif Mountains, passing through the small village of Mahouba before reaching Essafsaf with its old railway bridge, abandoned buildings, and bunkers.

After 58 km from the start the next climb begins, leading to Wawizeght and Rislane. With 1,200 m of vertical gain over 33 km, this is also the last major climb on the route to Sidi Ifni. In Rislane, at km 99, riders will find a café – the last one for at least another 115 km until Berguent. Riding between agricultural fields, the landscape now changes quickly into a truly desert environment.

At route km 260, riders pass an old French ford before crossing a completely flat and empty area for about 60 km. At km 350, Tendrara offers several small shops for resupply. From Tendrara it’s another 90 km to Bouarfa, the largest town on the route so far, with hotels, restaurants, and many shops.

At km 610 – another 165 km mostly on fast piste and gravel roads – riders arrive at Bni Tadjite, the next place to stock up on food and water. This section gains only 180 m of elevation and includes three river crossings. One of them held some water last February, up to knee-deep. The route then leads through farmland and passes several palm groves on the way to Boudnib, about 50% on paved roads. It’s only 60 km to “Rekam chez François” in Boudnib, a must-stay oasis in the desert. Take a room or pitch your tent, and refill with a good dinner and breakfast before heading out onto the “Piste Boudnib–Erfoud.”

The next 160 km to Jorf is a remote piste, so load enough water and food. Before reaching Jorf, riders pass the famous land art installations “La Cité d’Orion”, the “Golden Spiral”, and the “Stairway to Heaven”, built between 1980 and 2003 by German artist Hannsjörg Voth. In Jorf you can see the ancient underground water channels – an impressive tunnel system that once made desert water accessible for farming. 1)

From Jorf to Sidi Ali it’s 110 km on Saharan piste, coming along the “La Cárcel Portuguesa” – this crater was used as a film stage for a James Bond film, as well as the film The Mummy – and including a crossing of a dry salt lake. 20km before Sidi Ali lies the “Riad Nomad,” a recommended place for a break with a breathtaking view – or continue to Sidi Ali, where there are several auberges and a small shop.

The route continues on old Paris–Dakar pistes to Tagounite, a larger palm oasis with plenty of resupply options. Prepare well here for the coming 260 km section to Tissint. In recent years locals have opened a café near the “Oasis Sacrée”. You can refill your water bottles at several luxury desert camps near the Erg Chegaga dunes – the larges sand dune field in Morocco – and at the now well-known Titanic Restaurant at Lake Iriki. Additional water is available at the well 37 km after the restaurant and again in a small oasis another 14 km later – but there are no shops until Tissint. In the area of Erg Chigaga and Lake Ikiriki you may enjoy the most beautiful sunrise and and sunset you ever experienced.

Before reaching Tissint you ride through mountains shaped like shark fins on your left. Be prepared for another river crossing at the Oued el Mellah, which is usually passable with dry feet. Kasbah Tissint, with a swimming pool and hearty meals, is a great place to stay. Just after Tissint another palm grove at the Oued Tissint awaits. You may see local women washing clothes in the river – traditional style.

Tata is the next larger town in the Sahara where you will find almost everything you might need. From here it’s 150 km to Icht, an underground village of the desert. Living below ground allowed residents to stay cool during 50-degree summer days and warm during chilly winter nights. “Camping Borj Biramane” is the place to stay, offering both rooms and camping.

Don’t miss resupplying in the small village of Foum el Hassan. From here it’s 240 km to Guelmim, the next major town. Along the route there is a small kiosk in Aouinet after 160 km of piste. If it’s closed, ask the locals – they usually call the owner. Half way from Foum el Hassan you can decide whether to make a detour to Assa, another oasis town with full services and a newly opened auberge in the old city. Between Aouinet and Guelmim we provide the locations of three water wells where you can refill bottles.

Once in Guelmim, the finish is almost in sight. Only 80 km remain to Sidi Ifni, half of it along the Atlantic coast and about 50% on paved roads. About 45 km before the finish you reach the last oasis, with an old French fort at Bordj Bou Jerif.

In Sidi Ifni you will take your finisher photo in front of the iconic “Hôtel Suerte Loca” and the old fishing boat.

1) Youtube, The System of Khettaras…